Medieval towns, seaside olive groves, vineyards on craggy mountains, fields of rosemary — it sounds like France or Italy, but this is Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. While it’s not exactly a secret anymore, I can still find hidden coves and deserted beaches along this string of islands dotting the Adriatic Sea. After all, there’s 1,800 kilometres of coastline and 1,100 islands and islets here — some green and lush, others karst-rock — and more than 80 per cent of these islands are uninhabited. Most can be reached by ferry from the mainland, but I chose to island hop on a traditional boat, gleaming of polished wood and brass.

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