I had only meant to spend the night—a stopover on a road trip up the coast of Vietnam along the country’s main highway, from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. But somehow a week had slipped by, and I still found myself in the historic port city of Hoi An in Central Vietnam. It’s the kind of place you can get stuck, with its pretty French colonial architecture, cobblestones and canals—and arguably the country’s best food scene.
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