We’ve only been hiking the mist-shrouded mountains of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest for a short time when our guide, Niyibizi Goreth, tells us our trackers have spotted the Rushegura family. A ripple of hushed excitement passes through the group — after all, this is no ordinary family. We go off-trail as Goreth — one of the park’s few female rangers — slices through the foliage with a machete. That’s when reality takes hold.

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