After a jungle trek left me with two missing toenails and an intestinal infection that landed me in a Guatemalan hospital, I had sworn off jungle treks. I’d stick to mountains, away from mud, monsoons and mosquitos. But, here I am, back in the jungle, so hot it feels like I’m trekking in a sauna—or, perhaps more appropriately, a steam room, since the humidity is so thick you could slice it with a machete.

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